Williamsburg's most essential restaurant in the post-Marlow's era. Trigg Brown and Josh Ku's Taiwanese-American menu is sharp, deeply personal, and confident enough to make Brooklyn's umpteenth fusion concept feel obvious. The fly's head — minced pork over chives, fermented black bean, chili — is one of the best dishes in New York. Loud, narrow, perfect.
Insider tip
Sit at the counter, order the fly's head, the lu rou fan, and the cabbage. Whatever's special. Walk over to the bakery for an old fashioned cake afterward.
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