Brandon Jew's Chinatown restaurant sits in the space that once housed Four Seas, a banquet hall where his grandparents celebrated their wedding. The food honors that lineage while pushing in every direction — Dungeness crab rice noodles, smoked quail, a hot-and-sour soup that rewires your understanding of the dish. It's Chinese-American fine dining that feels both deeply rooted and entirely new.
Insider tip
The cheung fun with Dungeness crab and the whole roasted duck are the moves. Don't skip the sesame balls for dessert.
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