Indian food that has nothing to do with the butter chicken you grew up ordering. Chintan Pandya's menu pulls from the rural corners of India that most restaurants ignore — goat brain, rabbit kidney, offal in ways that would make a French chef jealous. The room on Essex Street is loud and joyful and smells like someone cracked open a spice cabinet the size of a continent.
Insider tip
The Champaran meat, slow-cooked in an earthen pot sealed with dough. Order it the moment you sit down — it takes time.
More in New York



