Cathy Whims has been making some of Portland's best Italian food for two decades, and Nostrana is her masterwork. The wood-fired oven produces blistered, chewy pizzas that rival anything in Brooklyn, the seasonal pastas are textbook, and the wine list is deep with Italian bottles you won't find anywhere else in the city. It's a grown-up restaurant that never feels stuffy.
Insider tip
The margherita pizza from the wood oven is a litmus test. If you're with a group, the whole roasted fish is a showstopper.
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