Earl Ninsom's southern Thai spot has done what no one in Portland thought possible after Pok Pok closed — it took the city's complicated, hard-earned love for serious Thai food and gave it a new home. The fried chicken with sticky rice and curry is the best version of itself you'll find outside Hat Yai. The roti stays crisp under the curry, which is the test.
Insider tip
Get the fried chicken set with sticky rice and the southern curry. Half order of khanom jeen if you're with a group.
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