The Wallingford Italian restaurant your friend who's lived in Seattle for twenty years has been telling you about. Tin ceiling, mismatched chandeliers, the kind of decor that looks unironic because it actually is. The pasta is hand-rolled, the meatballs are the size of fists, and the chicken parmesan is exactly as good as you want it to be. Forty years in and still essential.
Insider tip
The cioppino is the one to order. Bring a friend who likes red sauce — there's plenty to share.
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