David Nayfeld's Italian restaurant on Divisadero is the kind of place that makes you wonder why every city doesn't have a wood-fired, handmade-pasta joint this good. The cacio e pepe is impossibly silky, the wood-oven pizzas crackle, and the salumi program — cured in-house — could stand alongside anything in Emilia-Romagna. The room runs loud and warm and that's part of the deal.
Insider tip
The focaccia di Recco with stracchino cheese is the best thing to order first. Then the cacio e pepe. Then whatever they tell you to get.
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