Ludo Lefebvre's no-reservations French bistro is a love letter to the kind of Paris meal you can't believe costs this little. The counter seats thirteen, the menu is short, and every single thing on it — from the omelette to the double cheeseburger — is executed with a precision that borders on obsessive. This is French food that doesn't need a white tablecloth to prove anything.
Insider tip
The burgundy truffle mashed potatoes. You will think about them for days.
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