Retro Vegas

Lotus of Siam

The Northern Thai restaurant that put Vegas dining on the serious-food map decades before the city had a serious-food map. Saipin Chutima's khao soi, drunken noodles, and crispy beef are the kind of dishes that travel writers fly in to eat. The Sahara location is a strip-mall room with no business looking this unassuming and serving food this important.

Raku

The late-night Japanese izakaya every Vegas chef goes to after their own shift ends. Mitsuo Endo's small, focused menu of robata-grilled meats, agedashi tofu, homemade tofu, and seasonal sashimi is built on Tokyo-trained technique and ingredients flown in from Japan. The room is tiny, the wait is long, and the meal is one of the city's most quietly important dining experiences.

Esther's Kitchen

James Trees's Italian restaurant put the Arts District on the dining map and never gave back the spotlight. Hand-rolled pasta, wood-fired pizza, and a bread program serious enough to stand on its own — all served in a room that feels worn-in despite being relatively new. Reservations are essential. So is the bread basket.